Ocean Wave Mechanics

1. Introduction 1 24 1.1 General 1 1.2 Structures in the Marine Environment 2 1.3 Environmental Parameters 10 1.4 Storm Tides, Tidal Bores, Tsunamis and Seiches 19 2. Basic Fluid Mechanics 25 40 2.1 Introduction 25 2.2 Types of Flow 25 2.3 Continuity Equation Conservation of Mass 28 2.4 Forces Acting on Fluids in Motion 30 2.5 Euler's Equation of Motion 30 2.6 Pathlines and Streamlines 33 2.7 Velocity Potential 33 2.8 Stream Function 33 2.9 Bernoulli Equation 33 3. Basics of Wave Motion 41 78 3.1 Introduction 41 3.2 Small Amplitude Wave Theory 42 3.3 Dispersion Relationship 47 3.4 Celerity in Different Water Depth Conditions 49 3.5 Local Fluid Particle Velocities and Accelerations Under Progressive Waves 52 3.6 Water Particle Displacement Under Progressive Waves 54 3.7 Pressure Distribution Under Progressive Waves 56 3.8 Group Celerity 57 3.9 Wave Energy 59 3.10 Wave Power 61 3.11 Mass Transport Velocity 64 4. Wave Deformation 79 98 4.1 Introduction 79 4.2 Different Zones Based on Behavior of Ocean Waves 79 4.3 Shoaling 80 4.4 Wave Refraction 81 4.5 Wave Diffraction 85 4.6 Combined Refraction and Diffraction 88 4.7 Breaking of Waves 89 4.8 Wave Reflection 92 4.9 Waves on Currents 93 5. Finite Amplitude Wave Theories 99 116 5.1 Introduction 99 5.2 Classification of Finite Amplitude Wave Theories 99 6. Description and Analysis of Random Waves 117 154 6.1 Generation of Ocean Waves 117 6.2 Collection of Wave Data 119 6.3 Analysis of Ocean Waves 120 6.4 Detailed Analysis 123 6.5 Presentation of Wave Characteristics 128 6.6 Ocean Wave Prediction Models 130 6.7 Standard Representation of Wave Spectra 131 6.8 Simulation of Time Series 135 6.9 Directional Waves 138 7. Wave Loads on Structures 155 200 7.1 Introduction 155 7.2 Various Force Regimes 156 7.3 Wave Forces on Slender Structures 158 7.4 Froude Krylov Forces 168 7.5 Linear Diffraction Problem 170 7.6 Wave Slamming 176 7.7 Wave Forces on Walls and Rubble Mound Structures 176 7.8 Random Wave Forces 180 8. Ocean Wave Energy 201 214 8.1 Introduction 201 8.2 Ocean Energy 201 8.3 Wave Energy Potential 202 8.4 Wave Energy Map for India 202 8.5 Wave Energy Conversion 205 8.6 Wave Energy Devices 208 8.7 OWC Linked to Breakwaters 211 APPENDIX-A 215 220 Expressions for Stokes Fifth Order Theory 215 APPENDIX-B 221 228 Basics of Statistics and Random Process 221 Classification of Random Data 222 Cross Correlation Function Rxy( ) 226 Cross Spectrum 226 Coherence Function 227 APPENDIX-C 229 264 Wave Table 229 References 265 271

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